From GREG ATKINSON
Tarragon is one of those herbs that takes some getting used to. Before it became familiar to me through repeated exposure, I found its taste jarring. Now, its redolence is reassuring. A hint of anise, a note of basil, the simple fresh green of parsley, all these flavors and more are reflected in what I now consider the queen of all garden herbs. Poached salmon is another acquired taste. The first time I tried it, it seemed insipid compared to the rugged flavor of browned salmon off the grill or out of the sauté pan. Now, I appreciate the unadulterated taste of plain salmon cooked in a gentle bath of its own stock. Here, tarragon and fresh salmon play a nice duet. The flavors are highly complementary and uncomplicated.
4 skinless salmon fillets (about 8 ounces each)
1½ cups Salmon Stock (see below)
2 tablespoons organic butter
2 tablespoons flour
¼ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ cup organic cream
3 tablespoons fresh organic tarragon leaves or 1 tablespoon dried tarragon
Sprigs of tarragon, for garnish
In a large skillet with a close-fitting lid, arrange the salmon fillets, skinned side down, in a single layer. Pour in the stock and place the pan over medium heat. Cover and let the liquid come to a boil. Reduce the heat to low. Poach the fillets gently for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and transfer the fillets to a warm platter. Melt the butter in a saucepan and add the flour, salt, and pepper. Stir until combined. Add the poaching liquid, the cream, and the tarragon. Bring the sauce to a full rolling boil, whisking to keep it smooth, then pour it over the poached salmon fillets. Decorate the salmon with sprigs of tarragon and serve at once.
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